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    <title>house-to-home-complete-structure-inspections-llc</title>
    <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com</link>
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      <title>Don't Take Chances this Spring</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/make-the-most-of-the-season-by-following-these-simple-guidelines</link>
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          Spring has sprung in Michigan folks, this is the time to address all the little things that most homeowners either just live with, or don’t realize what effects may happen from the little things.
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          Spring rains are our friend for the earth and growing season but can be destructive to our homes if missed things aren’t corrected. The number one reason for wet basements is a lack of gutters, the second biggest cause is incorrect grade around the home. Although there are a few more that can be elusive to see &amp;amp; very expensive to fix such as
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           Broken or collapsed drainage tile around the foundation perimeter
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           Cracks in the foundation walls
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           No drainage in crawl spaces
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           Water running down interior walls from a bad roof
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           Drip edging
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           Low lands
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           Mud bogs
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           Natural springs
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           Cracked floor drains.
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          We’ve seen it all, &amp;amp; the causes are in many cases devastating to your home's framing &amp;amp; foundation. Even if you’re not buying, it pays to have a home inspection!
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          Sellers will be interested in this too, many surprises are uncovered that either cost them big $$, or even a loss of sale because the costs are just too big, &amp;amp; be left holding the bag. Huge other issues like unseen mold in the walls or attic, dry-rotted wood, and uneven floors. Call us for an inspection today, don’t take chances with your largest investment!
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      <pubDate>Mon, 04 May 2020 06:56:46 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/make-the-most-of-the-season-by-following-these-simple-guidelines</guid>
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      <title>Saving Energy in the Winter Months</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/keep-in-touch-with-site-visitors-and-boost-loyalty</link>
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          In our quest as homeowners to become more energy efficient, here are a few tips for saving energy in the winter months.
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          For forced air furnaces:
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           Close off registers in upstairs rooms that you don’t use, but never bathrooms or rooms with water pipes.
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           Adjust the dampers by closing them 1/4-1/2 on the heat ducts closest to the furnace, this will allow more flow to the further out dampers and help to equalize the system. This also helps to eliminate cold rooms in winter and hotter rooms in summer. 
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           If you don’t use your basement for a living space, close the heat vents, The basement is typically 8,-10’ below ground &amp;amp; the temperature below the frost line (42”) is a constant 50-52 degrees, and will not freeze.
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           Purchase the heaviest insulated drapes you can. The heavier the drape the more energy saved. On sunny days open all drapes that get the sun, and close them (if you’re home) as the sun moves, and repeat as the sun moves to other windows.
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           Adjust your humidifier so that when the front door is opened, it doesn’t fog up. Homes that have condensation on the windows indicate humidity is too high. Get programmable thermostats and turn the heat heat down in the house when you’re gone or at work.
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           Install auto motion sensing light switches, and LED bulbs throughout the home. Check all windows and doors for air leakage with a lit candle, &amp;amp; correct the leaky ones.
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          All these helpful items will result in BIG energy savings, and a warmer home when occupied.
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      <pubDate>Mon, 18 Nov 2019 06:56:46 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/keep-in-touch-with-site-visitors-and-boost-loyalty</guid>
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      <title>Grade Issues: Running Water into Crawl Spaces and Basements</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/tips-for-writing-great-posts-that-increase-your-site-traffic</link>
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           The Perma-Frost is now melting in Michigan. This means our rivers, streams and ditches are overflowing, the water table is rising, and saturated ground can not absorb the water. The result? Standing water everywhere. If the grade and swale at your home and property’s not moving the water away from your home, and “channeling” (proper slope and swale) chances are, you have wet foundation walls, in many cases this water transfers through the wall, seeps up from underneath and causes havoc. A good working sump pump will help, but you must run the drain as far away from the home as possible. Also make sure your sump drain line has a working check valve, if it is not, or not present, your pump will work overtime, as the water in the drain line can return to the sump pit, thus making the water fill much faster.
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          Crawl spaces are particularly vulnerable to flooding, dry rot, and spider infestation due to water. The majority of the crawl spaces here in Michigan have dirt floors, and many don’t have an active sump system. Homeowners tend not to go into the crawl (some never do) and therefore have no clue if the crawl is flooded, or worse, has dry rotted wood. here are a few examples of what we have seen in the last few Inspections. Heavy structural damage from dry rot, and sump pumps that have failed, because the homeowner never knew they were there, leaving standing water. Your home can actually drop at the foundation wall (or anywhere for that matter) due to dry rotted beams, joists, plate, or bond.
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      <pubDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2019 06:56:46 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/tips-for-writing-great-posts-that-increase-your-site-traffic</guid>
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      <title>House Noisy in The Winter?</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/house-noisy-in-the-winter</link>
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          Ever wonder why your house and deck make cracking one popping sounds when temperatures reach dangerous lows?
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           It's the basic laws of physics, according to Norbert Delatte, civil and environmental engineering department chairman and professor at Cleveland State University. 
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          "Pretty much all building materials – wood, concrete, steel – expand with heat and contract with cold," Delatte said. "The foundation of a house stays at a more normal temperature where the outside of the house is trying to shrink against it, so whatever connections there are between the foundation and home, they would be making some noise."
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          Sound travels further through the cold, dense air and the lack of activity overnight make the noises sound louder then they would during the day, he said.
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          The concrete foundation "footers" on houses are constantly shifting depending on the temperature and moisture in the ground. In extreme cases, the ground freezes, cracks and shakes slightly — what's known as a cryoseism, or "frost quake." 
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          Nails can contract and slip in wooden homes, creating a "pinging" sound, wooden floors can also be louder in the cold. When everything contracts, flooring will become a little tighter, and when you walk on it you will really hear those sounds. The wooden deck attached to the back of his home may sound like a firecracker, or gun shot going off from what could be a result of joints and nails shifting as they contrast against one another. In most cases, these noises indicate minor movements that do not typically cause damage, but popping noises can also be serious, and you should closely investigate around all doors and window frames after hearing this noise. Door and window frames are openings that can be a weakness in s structural design if not correctly supported with a header and doubled studs. Also check beams and posts as they bare the heaviest weight of the structure.
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      <pubDate>Tue, 29 Jan 2019 08:19:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/house-noisy-in-the-winter</guid>
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      <title>Leaks to Your Roof</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/leaks-to-your-roof</link>
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          With the recent cold snap, we are seeing condensation in attics in the form of frost. When the sun hits the roof, the frost melts. In some cases, condensation is seen on interior ceilings and upper walls. This can result in serious damage to your home. See the article below that we are reposting from Holland Roofing. Leak type #3 is this exact scenario.
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          There are basically 3 types of roof “leaks” which are detailed below. The solution to your roof moisture issues depends on what type of “leak” it is. If you notice excessive moisture during extreme temperature changes, and not when it rains, then the moisture probably isn’t a roof leak. The following information should help determine what issues you might be experiencing and what you can do to alleviate condensation.
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           The first type is where water is leaking through the roof system while it is raining. This could include leaks due to damaged or deteriorated shingles, improper installation of the shingles, or poor/failed flashing details at penetrations and walls. It may even be due to damaged window sills, improper siding installations or severe wind driven rain. These are external leaks which can usually be inspected and repaired by a roofer.
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           The second type of “leak” is caused by ice dams. This is not workmanship related. The best way to prevent or reduce ice dams is to eliminate or reduce the amount of warm air that is escaping into the attic and melting snow on the roof to the point where it creates glacier like ice build up. Another temporary solution is to remove the snow from the roof before it can turn into ice and penetrate the roof system.
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           The third type of “leak” is caused by condensation or frost buildup in the attic. This is not workmanship related or an actual roof leak. To prevent frost &amp;amp; condensation from developing in your attic you must eliminate or reduce the amount of air leakage into the attic as well as improve insulation &amp;amp; ventilation to allow moist air to escape the roof.
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          What is Condensation?
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          Condensation comes from the moisture in the air and is caused by too much moisture in the air for a certain temperature. Condensation forms when warm, moist air touches a surface that is colder than the dew point of the warm air. As that air becomes colder and its temperature drops below its dew point, it must release excess moisture to reach its new, lower dew point. It releases moisture in the form of water, which appears on the colder surface.
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          There are many things in our homes that put moisture into the air. Normal breathing and perspiration adds 3 pints of water to the air every day for each person in your home. In fact, every activity that uses water adds more moisture to the air including cooking, taking showers, dish washing, and doing laundry. Condensation is more apt to occur in climates where the average temperature is 35º F or colder. Condensation is a common sign of inadequate insulation and/or ventilation.
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          Condensation in the Home - A Warning Sign
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          Condensation is usually first noticed on your windows and skylights because they are the most visible areas of your house. While it’s natural to blame the windows, you shouldn’t always. Window and skylight condensation is the result of excess humidity in your home. And the glass only provides a visible cold surface on which humidity can condense. This could be a sign that your excessive indoor humidity is causing damage elsewhere in places you cannot see, such as: your walls, ceilings, floors, and your attic roof. Excessive indoor humidity can cause blistering and peeling paint, warping and rotting wood, as well as the formation of mildew &amp;amp; mold.
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          During extreme cold temperatures, frost can build up on the underside of the roof sheeting (attic roof). Once the outdoor temperature rises, that frost melts and can mimic a leak. This “leak” can be excessive when the temperatures dramatically change, as is common during our Alaskan winters. Frost build up is most common above heat sources such as light fixtures (especially can lights), kitchen stoves, fireplaces, bathrooms, fans, and improperly vented exhaust fans. When the frost melts, this “leak” is most commonly found dripping out of those heat sources.
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          High ceiling beams and cathedral ceilings with water spots can be confused with an active leak, when in fact it is a result of condensation.
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          If you have ever noticed a lot of icicles hanging from the edge of your roof, chances are your house is leaking significant (and expensive) amounts of air and heat into the attic.
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          Controlling Indoor Humidity
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          Most new homes are now made tighter than ever. They are well insulated and no longer "breath" on their own. Both insulation and ventilation should be addressed to control condensation. Steps must be taken to ventilate the house, allowing moisture and humidity to escape.
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          Controlling Indoor Humidity
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          Most new homes are now made tighter than ever. They are well insulated and no longer "breath" on their own. Both insulation and ventilation should be addressed to control condensation. Steps must be taken to ventilate the house, allowing moisture and humidity to escape.
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          STEPS YOU CAN TAKE TO CONTROL THE HUMIDITY IN YOUR HOME INCLUDE:
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           Bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans, as well as dryer vents, should never be discharged into the attic space, always discharge outside. You may have an adequately ventilated attic, but this won’t matter if the bathroom exhaust fan dumps warm moist air directly into          the attic space. This will result in condensed water vapor freezing onto cold attic materials, which will eventually          thaw creating wet attic materials resulting in damage in the attic and inside the home.
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           Installing exhaust fans in the kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry rooms.
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           Controlling or covering other sources of humidity (radiator water pans, fish tanks, large numbers of plants, etc.).
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           Installing a dehumidifier. Dehumidifiers are an inexpensive way to reduce the moisture in your home. Highly recommended in vaulted roofs with a loft.
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           Opening fireplace damper.
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           Ventilating the crawl space or basement: Install foundation vents or leave a basement window cracked in the fall or early winter to ventilate your basement or crawl space.
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           Research shows keeping the attic air temperature below freezing when the outside air temperature is in the low 20s can reduce the occurrence of ice dams. Proper attic ventilation is key to keeping the attic cool, while adequate and properly installed insulation is key to keeping your house warm. It is critical to keep soffit vents free from obstructions to allow the natural flow of cool outside air into the attic space to replace the warmer attic air that rises and flows outside ridge and/or roof vents. This flow of air will keep the attic cool and free of moisture build-up.
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           Adding additional roof vents, such as box vents, turbine vents and ridge vents will also allow the warm air to escape the attic space and reduce condensation issues.
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      <pubDate>Thu, 24 Jan 2019 08:28:23 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/leaks-to-your-roof</guid>
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      <title>Winter Preparation</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/winter-preparation</link>
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          Winter is upon us here in. Michigan. It’s that time of year to batten down the hatches, and protect our biggest investment. Here are a few easy to do items that will save money, help prevent deterioration, and keep you warmer.
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           Close all feed valves to outside faucets, then open the outside bibs to drain water in the pipe. It’s also a good idea to purchase Styrofoam faucet covers for the hose bibs. Even if you have freeze proof faucets, you should cover them.
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           Install a weather cover for your central AC unit.
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           Clean all gutters, &amp;amp; be sure down spouts are directed away from the home and any walks. This will assist in keeping ice build up to a minimum
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           Clean and seal all cracks in concrete drives and walks, this will prevent heaving from ice. Seal asphalt drives if crumbling, cracking or los areas exists
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           Look at all caulking around all windows and doors, and caulk where necessary
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           Check all door seals and threshold seals. Tip Take a flashlight at night, turn lights off, shine the light around the door seal and threshold, having someone outside to see if any light shines through. Replace seals if necessary
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           Check overhead garage door seals, replace if necessary.
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           Inspect the flashing around the chimney and seal if necessary
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           If you have a fireplace, wood stove, or other solid fuel burning heat source, have the chimney cleaned and inspected by a qualified chimney sweep
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           Trim all tree branches that can fall on the home (added weight from snow and ice can stress branches to the breaking point)
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           Don’t store firewood against your house, rodents take shelter in wood, and may find there way into your warm home for winter
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           Don’t feed birds close to the house, bird food is also great food for field mice, and they may get into the home
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           If your home has a crawl space with shutter metal vents, close the vents (Just remember to open them again in the spring)
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      <pubDate>Fri, 09 Nov 2018 08:46:35 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/winter-preparation</guid>
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      <title>Things Only A Home Inspector Would Catch...</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/things-only-a-home-inspector-would-catch</link>
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          During the inspection in the master bath, we noticed moderate water damage to the interior of the vanity under the sink. When we tested the single handle faucet, the cold water did not turn on at the sink. After a closer look, we determined the cold water valve under the sink was shut off. We turned the water on, and immediately noticed a pinhole leak in the cold water supply line. Being a single handle faucet, it would have been very easy to just turn the faucet on. Without actually testing to verify you have both hot &amp;amp; cold water, and making sure the hot water gets hot, &amp;amp; cold water stays cold, this may not have been discovered. Again, a great example of why a home inspection is necessary.
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      <pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2016 12:30:06 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/things-only-a-home-inspector-would-catch</guid>
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      <title>Home Inspections and Buying A Home</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/home-inspections-and-buying-a-home</link>
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          In today's aggressive real estate market, it's easy to get caught up with the hurry to purchase a home. In other words, good homes go fast, so buy it or loose it. Buying a home is an emotional experience, and since it's, in many cases, the largest investment many folks will make in their lifetime, it is extremely wise to have the home inspected prior to committing a purchase agreement. Nothing could be worse than purchasing a home, and later realizing one, or numerous deficiencies exist that were overlooked, or not visible at all. Many times we allow our excitement of the home buying experience to put our blinders on. We are so excited about the layout, the fireplace in the living room, the walk out basement etc. That we fail to see things like a moisture line in the basement indicating a past flood event. Or cracks in the garage floor, maybe a differential movement on the roof showing a bow, or uneven surfaces. The importance of a home inspection can bring out the things you need to know before you purchase.
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          Many items are simple things that most every home owner can take care of themselves, and most are typical maintenance items. However, when it comes to things we can't see like overloaded circuits in the electrical panel, or lack of moisture barrier in the attic, a heating system that's seen or is close to its mechanical life, or even a negative slope in the yard that runs water to toward the house instead of away from it.
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           ﻿
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          These items may require a bit more to correct, and you may not want to take them on. Home inspections are NOT designed to loose or gain a sale in any way, simply put the inspection report is a "Factual Report" nothing less, and nothing more, they are reports for you to examine and discuss with your real estate agent.
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          Then you can make a decision with confidence that you have a better understanding of what the home may or may not need. A qualified, certified home inspector will discover the items that are acceptable, marginal, defective, safety hazards, and items needing immediate attention.
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      <pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2016 09:54:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.housetohomemi.com/home-inspections-and-buying-a-home</guid>
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      <title>What Really Matters In A Home Inspection</title>
      <link>https://www.housetohomemi.com/what-really-matters-in-a-home-inspection</link>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2016 09:03:09 GMT</pubDate>
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